Ellsworth, Maine
Gateway to Acadia. A practical and increasingly charming stopover city with a historic downtown, the Union River, and the last full-service shopping before Mount Desert Island.
Most visitors blow through Ellsworth on the way to Bar Harbor, but the town deserves a stop. The historic downtown along the Union River has been quietly revitalizing with restaurants, a restored art deco theater, and locally owned shops. Ellsworth is also the practical hub for the region, with grocery stores, hardware shops, and services that Mount Desert Island lacks.
Do not just drive through. Most visitors treat Ellsworth as a gas-and-groceries stop on the way to Acadia, but the downtown along the Union River has come into its own. Walk Main Street, check the Grand Theater marquee, and eat at one of the restaurants that cater to locals rather than tourists.
Stock up here. If you are headed to Mount Desert Island, Ellsworth is your last chance for a full grocery store, a hardware store, and affordable gas. Hannaford and Walmart are on the Route 3 strip. Everything on the island costs more.
Visit the Woodlawn Museum. The 180-acre estate on the edge of downtown has walking trails, formal gardens, and a preserved 1828 mansion. The grounds are free and open year-round, making it a perfect morning walk before heading to Acadia.
Swim at Branch Lake. Branch Lake is one of the cleanest lakes in Maine, just 10 minutes north of downtown. The public beach is small but the water is crystal clear and the swimming is excellent. Bring a picnic.
Explore Donnell Pond. If you want backcountry without the Acadia crowds, Donnell Pond east of Ellsworth has remote swimming beaches, backcountry campsites, and hikes up Schoodic Mountain and Black Mountain with views stretching to the coast.
Skip the Bar Harbor entrance and enter Acadia from the west side via Route 102 through Somesville. This puts you on the quieter western side of the island with Beech Mountain, Echo Lake Beach, and the Bass Harbor Head Light. Ellsworth is the same distance to both sides of the island.
The Riverside Cafe on Main Street is where Ellsworth locals eat breakfast. Skip the chain restaurants on Route 3 and walk downtown instead. The baked goods are made fresh daily and the coffee is actually good.
More Than a Gateway
Ellsworth’s position at the crossroads of Routes 1 and 3 makes it a hub for exploring far beyond Acadia. Blue Hill and its peninsula are 20 minutes south. Bucksport and the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory are 18 miles west. The Schoodic Peninsula section of Acadia is 40 minutes east.
The Union River through downtown is tidal and surprisingly scenic. In May, the alewife run draws bald eagles and osprey that fish the rapids near the dam. In summer, kayakers paddle the calm lower stretches toward the bay.
Ellsworth vs Bar Harbor: where should I stay?
Bar Harbor is walkable to shops, restaurants, and the park, but lodging runs $200-400+ per night in summer. Ellsworth is 25 minutes away with rooms starting under $150 and cheaper dining. If you have a car and want to save money, Ellsworth is a smart base.
What is there to do in Ellsworth on a rainy day?
The Grand Theater shows first-run movies and hosts concerts in a beautiful art deco setting. The Woodlawn Museum offers house tours. The shops and restaurants on Main Street stay open rain or shine.
Is the Union River good for kayaking?
Yes, but it is tidal, so timing matters. Paddle at high tide or on the incoming tide for the best experience. The calm lower stretches below the dam are the most popular section.
How long does it take to drive from Ellsworth to Cadillac Mountain?
About 30 minutes. From downtown Ellsworth, take Route 3 south to the park entrance, then drive the summit road to the top. In summer, a vehicle reservation is required for the summit road.
Spring
March-May. Alewife run in May brings eagles to the Union River. Early season is quiet and affordable.
Summer
June-August. Peak Acadia season keeps Ellsworth busy. Branch Lake is perfect for swimming. Book lodging ahead.
Fall
September-October. Foliage along the Union River valley. Acadia is less crowded. Autumn Gold Festival in October.
Winter
November-February. Very quiet. Grand Theater stays active. Affordable lodging for those who want to explore Acadia in solitude.
Things to Do
Woodlawn Museum & Gardens
A 180-acre estate with formal gardens, walking trails through fields and forest, and a historic mansion open for tours.
Union River Kayaking
Paddle the tidal Union River through downtown Ellsworth, with opportunities to spot eagles, herons, and seals near the bay.
Branch Lake
One of the cleanest lakes in Maine with a public beach, boat launch, and excellent trout fishing, 10 minutes north of downtown.
Acadia National Park
The crown jewel of the Maine coast is just 20 minutes south. Cadillac Mountain, Jordan Pond, and over 150 miles of trails.
Donnell Pond
Remote public lands east of Ellsworth with backcountry camping, swimming beaches, and hikes up Schoodic and Black Mountains.
Where to Eat & Drink
Riverside Cafe
CafePopular breakfast and lunch spot on Main Street with house-baked pastries, creative sandwiches, and strong coffee.
Shin Bashi
JapaneseExcellent sushi and Japanese dishes in an unexpected Ellsworth location. Fresh seafood rolls and hot noodle bowls.
Union River Lobster Pot
SeafoodSeasonal seafood restaurant with outdoor seating overlooking the Union River. Known for whole lobster dinners and blueberry pie.
Airline Brewing Company
BreweryCraft brewery on the Airline Road with a rotating tap list, food trucks, and a family-friendly tasting room.
Where to Stay
Hotels
(1)The Acadia Hotel
HotelClean, affordable hotel at the junction of Routes 1 and 3, convenient for early morning departures to Acadia.
Campgrounds
(1)Lamoine State Park Campground
CampgroundWaterfront campground on Frenchman Bay, 10 miles south of Ellsworth, with views of Mount Desert Island and Cadillac Mountain.
Events & Festivals
Autumn Gold Festival
Downtown celebration of fall with live music, food vendors, craft fair, and activities for families.
Grand Theater Performances
The restored 1938 art deco Grand Theater hosts films, concerts, and live performances in a beautiful setting.
Ellsworth Farmers Market
Local produce, baked goods, and artisan products at the Knowlton Park pavilion.
When to Visit Ellsworth
Spring
Mar - May
28-58F
Alewife run on the Union River in May draws eagles and osprey. Town gears up for tourist season.
Summer
Jun - Aug
55-80F
Peak Acadia season. Ellsworth buzzes with visitors stocking up before heading to the island. Branch Lake is perfect for swimming.
Fall
Sep - Nov
35-65F
Beautiful foliage along the Union River valley. Acadia is less crowded and equally stunning.
Winter
Dec - Feb
10-30F
Quiet season. The Grand Theater stays active with events. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing nearby.
Frequently Asked Questions
Everything you need to know before visiting Ellsworth. Can't find your answer? Contact us.