The Ultimate Maine Wilderness Lake
Chesuncook Lake is the third-largest lake in Maine, stretching 18 miles through a landscape of unbroken boreal forest in the state’s northern interior. The village of Chesuncook, one of the most isolated communities in the eastern United States, sits on the lake’s western shore and has no road access. You reach it by boat, floatplane, or logging road to a nearby launch. Camping at Greenlaw Chopping and the other primitive sites around Chesuncook is as close to true wilderness as you can get while still technically being in the lower 48.
Henry David Thoreau paddled Chesuncook Lake during his 1853 trip into the Maine woods, and his account of the experience helped define the American wilderness tradition. The lake has changed less than almost any other place Thoreau visited. The forest is still vast, the moose still wade in the shallows, and the silence at night is still absolute.
Primitive campsites are scattered along the shoreline, maintained minimally by the North Maine Woods organization. Greenlaw Chopping is one of the more established sites, a cleared area on the lakeshore where you can pitch a tent and build a fire. But the whole lake is your camping area, with designated sites on points, coves, and islands that offer different perspectives on this enormous body of water.
The Campsites
Camping on Chesuncook Lake is primitive in every sense. Sites have fire rings and perhaps a rough clearing. Some have a privy nearby. There are no tables, no piped water, no showers, and no staff. You are entirely responsible for your own comfort, safety, and waste.
Greenlaw Chopping sits on the western shore with views across the lake. The site is large enough for several tents and is one of the more accessible sites for those arriving by boat from Cushing’s Landing or the Chesuncook Dam area. Other sites are distributed around the lake’s 80-plus miles of shoreline, many on points and islands that catch the breeze and reduce bug pressure.
Access to the lake requires either driving logging roads to a boat launch (Cushing’s Landing is the most common starting point) or hiring a floatplane. From the launch, you paddle to your chosen site. The distances involved are significant: Chesuncook Lake is big water, and getting from the launch to sites at the far end of the lake can take half a day or more of paddling.
Camp on an island if you can reach one. The islands on Chesuncook catch lake breezes that reduce blackfly and mosquito pressure, and they offer 360-degree views of the forest and mountains. The sense of isolation on a Chesuncook island campsite is extraordinary.
Things to Do
Paddling is the defining activity. Chesuncook Lake’s size means you can spend days exploring different arms, coves, and islands without retracing your route. The lake connects to the West Branch of the Penobscot River system, and experienced paddlers can plan extended trips that link Chesuncook with Caucomgomoc Lake, Chamberlain Lake, and the Allagash Waterway.
Fishing on Chesuncook is excellent. The lake holds landlocked salmon, lake trout, brook trout, and togue. Spring fishing after ice-out is legendary, with large salmon and lake trout feeding near the surface. By midsummer, the cold-water species go deep, and you need to troll with downriggers or switch to bass fishing in the shallows. The tributary streams entering the lake hold wild brook trout.
Moose-watching reaches its peak along Chesuncook. The boggy shores and stream mouths are prime moose habitat, and dawn paddles along the shoreline regularly produce sightings. During June, when blackflies drive moose to the water, it is not unusual to see multiple moose from your canoe in a single morning.
The village of Chesuncook, if you paddle to it, is a tiny collection of buildings with no services but a deep history. Chesuncook House, a historic lodge, has operated in various forms since the logging era. The cemetery and the few remaining structures speak to a way of life that has nearly vanished from Maine.
Chesuncook Lake is one of the most remote camping destinations in the eastern United States. There is no cell service anywhere on the lake. The nearest hospital is in Greenville or Millinocket, both over two hours away by logging road. Weather on the lake can change rapidly, with wind-driven waves that endanger canoes. You must be fully self-sufficient and experienced in wilderness travel. This is not a place for beginners.
When to Go
Spring
Ice-out in early to mid-May. Exceptional fishing. Roads may be muddy. Blackflies are brutal in June.
Summer
July and August offer the warmest, most stable weather. Long days for paddling. Water is swimmable by mid-July.
Fall
September foliage is spectacular from the lake. Cold nights, no bugs, excellent fishing. Days shorten quickly.
Winter
Lake freezes. Some snowmobile and ice fishing access, but camping infrastructure is not maintained.
Getting There
The most common access is via logging roads from Greenville. Drive north on the Lily Bay Road, then follow logging roads west toward Chesuncook Dam and Cushing’s Landing. The drive from Greenville takes roughly two hours on gravel roads. From the landing, paddle to your campsite.
From Millinocket, you can access the eastern side of the lake via the Golden Road and logging road connections. The drive is comparable in time.
A floatplane from Greenville, Millinocket, or Shin Pond is the fastest access and eliminates the need for a long paddle from the launch to distant sites. Several bush plane operators serve the region.
You must register and pay fees at a North Maine Woods checkpoint. Fees are per person per night, approximately $10-12 for residents and $18 for non-residents.
If you can afford it, take a floatplane in and have the pilot drop you at a site on one of the remote arms of the lake. The experience of watching the plane fly away and being alone on a wilderness lake of this scale is something you will never forget. Arrange a pickup date and have a contingency plan in case weather delays the flight.
Camping Packing List
- Canoe or kayak rated for large lake travel
- PFDs for every paddler
- Tent with bomb-proof rain fly
- Sleeping bag rated to 25F (nights can be cold)
- Camp stove and fuel for entire stay
- Water filter or purification system
- Bear canister or bear hang system
- 7+ days of food if doing an extended trip
- Detailed map and compass (no GPS coverage)
- Emergency supplies: first aid, repair kit, whistle, signal mirror
- Bug protection: spray, head nets, long sleeves (June is brutal)
- Dry bags for all gear
FAQ
How do I get to Chesuncook Lake?
By logging road to a boat launch (Cushing's Landing is most common, about 2 hours from Greenville on gravel roads) or by floatplane from Greenville or Millinocket. There is no road access to the campsites.
Is this camping suitable for families with kids?
Only for experienced outdoor families. The remoteness, lack of services, and big water make this challenging for young children or inexperienced campers.
Are there any services on the lake?
Very limited. Chesuncook House, a historic lodge on the lake, may offer meals or supplies by arrangement. Otherwise, you are completely self-sufficient.
How big is Chesuncook Lake?
About 26,000 acres with over 80 miles of shoreline. It is the third-largest lake in Maine. The lake is 18 miles long and up to 3 miles wide.
Can I use a motorboat?
Yes. Motorboats are allowed on Chesuncook Lake. Many anglers use small motorboats for fishing. Be aware of the distances involved and carry adequate fuel.
